How to wear Brocade Fabric

The centuries-old textile (it dates back to the Byzantine Empire!) is having a renaissance. Here, your most flattering ways to wear it.

If You’re Full Figured

Whatever your best feature, that’s where you should sport brocade. Shapely legs? Go for a skirt or tapered pants. A slender waist? Slip on a nipped-in jacket. One hint: A larger-scale pattern looks more slimming than a tiny one.

The Head-to-Toe Look

A nice surprise: These pants are made of a nonclingy, lightweight fabric and have a discreet elastic waist for a comfortable fit. Colorful trousers call for black everywhere else. Well, except for a touch of pretty sparkle at the neck.

Marina Rinaldi polyester-and-acetate pants, $420

If You Have Full Hips and Thighs

Look for styles that show off your waist to help balance your figure. Brocade tends to be a thick fabric, so bypass pants and narrow skirts, which add inches to the lower half. Darks are forgiving.

The Head-to-Toe Look

The fitted bodice of this dress plays up the torso, while the swishy skirt masks fuller thighs. Since the design is busy, stick to black (but not boring) accessories.

BB Dakota polyester-and-rayon dress, $110 

If You Have a Straight Figure

Fake curves with cuts that hug the body and use volume strategically (like the trumpet dress here). To avoid looking boyish, skip anything boxy.

The Head-to-Toe Look

With the help of princess seaming and darts, the fabric contours the body to create a flattering, feminine shape. Accents in silver and gunmetal tones add extra dimension to a black-and-navy dress.

DKNY wool-and-polyester dress, $445

If You Have a Tummy

Be careful about wearing shiny, attention-getting brocade around the stomach. The trick is to opt for silhouettes that are not too loose or too lean. Peplums, sheath dresses, and cropped jackets highlight the middle in a bad way.

The Head-to-Toe Look

The structured shape of this shift stands away from the body, skimming over the midsection. Metallic shoes and jewelry tie together the bold palette.

J.Crew Collection wool-blend dress, $298

If You Have a Large Bust

The safest bet? Wearing brocade below the waist. A definite no-no? Brocade collars or wide lapels, which exaggerate the chest.

The Head-to-Toe Look

Don’t be afraid to mix and match patterned accessories with brocade. Just stay in the same color family and vary the scale.

The Limited polyester-blend skirt, $70

Brocade Top for Full Hips and Thighs

Low-Key With Black JeansPaired with a dark bottom, a fancy tee lures eyes up top and away from problem areas.

Raoul acetate-blend top, $435

Brocade Skirt for Full Hips and Thighs

Top It Off With a Tucked-in BlouseThis matte black brocade boasts a pretty floral, minus any hip-magnifying sheen.

Karen Walker neoprene skirt, $318

Brocade Top for Straight Figures

Flirty With Cigarette PantsEmbrace the peplum to create the look of va-va-voom hips.

Yoana Baraschi ponte-and-brocade top, $264

Brocade Skirt for Straight Figures

Belt a Beaded Cardigan Over ItThe contrast of plush and shimmery textures makes this body-conscious gray skirt especially rich.

Ann Taylor rayon-blend skirt, $89

Brocade Top for a Tummy

Get Flowy With a Long, Full SkirtA barely there luster and stretchy fabric mean this shirt is extra forgiving.

Bailey 44 cotton-and-polyester top, $130

Brocade Skirt for a Tummy

Pair It With a Blouson Sweater
The damask design helps disguise bumps, especially when worn with a longer top. Goes up to a size 18.

Worthington cotton-and-polyester skirt, $34

Brocade Dress for a Large Bust

Sleek With Black Pumps and HoseA cool optical illusion: The black panels along the sides have a minimizing effect.

Darling polyester-blend dress, $105

Brocade Pants for a Large Bust

Team It With a Tuxedo JacketWith its chic, tapered cut, this golden paisley pick steals the focus from above.

Raoul silk-blend pants, $360